By Daphne Bennett
October 2024
Hot of the Press! The fashion industry is experiencing a flurry of creative director changes. With high-profile names like Kim Jones, Alessandro Michele, and Eddie Slimane on the move, it's like a never-ending game of musical chairs. Is this a reflection of economic pressures, or a sign of a thriving and innovative industry?
Keep it in the family?
Fendi is saying arreverdeci to creative director Kim Jones. It has just been announced that the South African designer that succeeded the late Karl Lagerfeld in 2020 is leaving the LVMH owned Roman fashion house following his spring collection 2025. While his work at Fendi was recieved with mixed reviews his last collection needed on a higher note for which is the fourth largest in the LVMH fashion portfolio next to Louis Vuitton Dior and Celine.
He will continue in the men’s creative design post for Dior, while mother daughter Fendi family members Silvia Venturini and Delfina del Torres continue in their roles, with Silvia handling handbags and men’s collection and Delfina designing jewellery.
The question begs though, what prevented the Fendi matriarchy Silvia from uptaking the position? The increasing rarity for luxury brands to mark at leader internally such as Silvia is incomplete, this can be pinned on the 'revolving door' effect of creative directors, hopping from each house to another. seeking new challenges and opportunities. However, this constant turnover can make it difficult for brands to cultivate long-term leadership and maintain a consistent creative vision.
Celine's Loss, Chanel's Gain?
Eddie Silmane is leaving Celine with American designer Michael Rider formerly creative director of Polo Ralph Lauren replacing him. Following Silmane’s seven years at Celine with his first collection evoking a parallel from his previous style at Saint Laurent but soon after his debut he took on this ‘haute bourgeois’ well-heeled Parisian 'left-bank' refinement, a mixture that sparked Celine's economic growth.
His final Spring 2025 collection not dispelling any of the rumours of the Chanel speculations with his looks being a ode to Chanles most enduring house codes.
An Economic Swap: Is Valentino's Future a Numbers Game?
Final fashion swap of Alessandro Michele is the new creative director of Valentino from Gucci. Michele’s ability to conjure “irresistibly desirable objects” transformed the fortunes of Gucci, nearly tripling revenues from €3.5 billion in 2014 to €9.73 billion in 2022. This is one reason why, ever since his departure in November that year, speculation about his next creative home has swirled near-constantly. In the end, all roads led to Rome. In part, Michele’s new role will reunite him with Kering Group, the parent company to Gucci. Notably, Valentino was acquired for €700 million by the investment fund Mayhoola in 2012. but last years 30% sale to Kering reached at €1.7 billion paving Kering for a complete acqusition by 2028. Should Michele prove as transformational to Valentino as he was to Gucci, would prove to be a highly appealing fiscal asset, yet Michele’s resort debut left more to be desired arguably failing to meld his DNA with the house, showing an overacessorized Gucci aesthetic.
Which begs the question, in the pursuit of safety in numbers, how many of these brands sacrificed their signature style?
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