By Daphne Bennett
October 2024
In a watch market downturn, Patek Phillipe has thrown in the gauntlet and its not round. Their first new collection in 25 years, the Cubitus, is a bold departure from tradition, aiming to sqaure up to the tastes of the future, sporty with a dash of vintage charm.
A New Era for Luxury Watchmaking
Patek Philippe, the epitome of high-end horology, has long been synonymous with classic round watches. However, with the introduction of the Cubitus collection, the renowned Swiss watchmaker has taken a bold step into uncharted territory. This square-faced, sporty timepiece is a departure from their traditional aesthetic, designed to appeal to a younger generation of watch enthusiasts. It's a fusion of modern design and vintage charm, offering a fresh perspective on luxury timekeeping.
A Bold Departure from Tradition
Think of it as the activewear of the watch world. In a market where 85% of timepieces are round the Cubitus boasts a distinctive square case with a decidedly modern edge, tapping into the ever-growing trend of shaped watches and luxury steel bracelets. It's a clear nod to the "sporting luxe" movement, a space where high-end materials meet an active aesthetic.
A quick glance at the Cubitus inevitably makes us think of Patek Philippe's best-known watch, the Nautilus, created by Gérald Genta in 1976, blended with the sporty chic of the rubber strapped Aquanaut. At the launch in Munich CEO Thirrey Stern said "I wanted a sports watch, let's say sporty chic, and I couldn't really find the right creative angle. But we have the Nautilus and the Aquanaut, so why look elsewhere? that's our DNA.”
A Collection for Every Taste
The Cubitus launches with three distinct models. Stern said he envisioned the steel model in particular as attracting ambitious buyers aged between 30 and 50 who are "on the move," while the platinum Ref 5822P is clearly targeted at older clients — "but someone who is still cool and likes the hype." The platinum Ref 5822P boasts a grand complication, a large-format date, moon phase, and day of the week display, all changing with the flick of a (very expensive) wrist. For those with a taste for the vintage, the Ref 5821/1AR in steel and rose gold with a blue dial offers a touch of eighties nostalgia. Rounding out the trio is the all-steel Ref 5821/1A, sporting a sleek olive-green dial. Prices? Let's just say they'll make your entry Daytona chronograph blush (starting at a cool £35,330 upwards of £75,690 for the 5822P).
A New Chapter in Patek Philippe's Story
Although this release marks a clear departure from the brand's more conservative offerings like the Calatrava or Ellipse. It demonstrates the brand's ability to innovate and evolve while staying true to its core values. By appealing to a younger generation of watch enthusiasts, Patek Philippe is establishing a new wave of customers to continue their brand slogan "You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation."
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